The cosmetics champion renews its team with more cracks
With advances happening at the speed of light, and the endless cosmetic offerings, it seems more and
more complex to keep up with trends and news in beauty. However, as Cruz Calvo -partner of the
niche and cult beauty shop BEAUTY CUBE (Santiago de Compostela) and an authentic trendsetter-
explains, there is a general focus, a pattern that summarizes the ways taken by the majority of the
cosmetic launches in the few last years... ...A concept that translates into products less centered on
correction and more on preventing and protecting, "the two new key words in the modern approach
PREVENTING + PROTECTING = COUPLE OF ACES
Within this preventing/protecting philosophy that starts dominating the avant-garde cosmetic formulas,
all kinds of products are included and active ingredients, including sunscreens ("more and more high
tech and refined" and a cosmetic ally imprescindible nowadays "because its protective and preventive
role as anti-aging shield") and the newest formulas with probiotics and prebiotics.
Of course, antioxidants would be included in this group, as well as those technologies called
cell-signaling or cell communication, whose basic function is to optimise communication between cells,
improving cellular function (an example, says Cruz, is the AGELESS-15 serum by Cellex-C, based
precisely in the cell-communicating ingredients theory)...
...More protection? The one offered to skin tissues by the new plant stem cells. A kind of cosmetic in-
gredients that, as explained by Cruz Calvo, are "starting to be used as an alternative to animal stem
cells" and that, obtained from certain fruits and cereals, "seem to facilitate the growth of human stem
...Bio cosmetics is another of the big trends, a kind of products that, in the words of Cruz Calvo, perfec-
tly exemplify the therapeutic trend in contemporary skin care...
...Other of the greatest hits in the recent years should be mentioned: mineral makeup. Formulas that
go beyond color and have a lot of properties and additional advantages for the skin: formulated with very
few ingredients, all of them "can be natural and have healing properties, as it happens with zinc oxide".
This kind of makeup that Cruz defines as "a round product" is the first one 100% "friendly with the skin
from a phisiological point of view and not only in the visual sense"...
...In the field of cosmeceuticals there are also some novelties, a new generation that Cruz defines as mini-
malistic cosmeceuticals, describing them as "more elegant and sensible, very potent and optimized and
much more friendly with the skin". Because "it's not enough that they carry high percentages of actives: its
general formulation should be as well designed as a Mac computer or a Botega Venetta leather handbag"...
...From the sea, the newest thing is the oyster extract with ultra-nutritive properties for the skin. As an
example, two recent launches: the antiaging serum by Jeanne Piaubert and the ISTR cream by the English-
French label FOUND (exclusively in Spain at BEAUTY CUBE). This latter firm uses also other of the trendy
ingredients: snake venom. Yes, exactly as you have read, snake venom stands out as a new antiaging must
because of its capacity to temporarily paralyze the muscles, fighting expression lines (just for a few hours).
Because of this, some labs have been investigating until they found the way to include it with no risk a-
mong their active ingredients. This has been accomplished by sinthetizing peptides that mimic the action of
snake bite on the muscles, such in the SARPA cream by Found...
By María R. de Rivera
Web de BEAUTY CUBE, Santiago de Compostela